Front Row: Chinese American Designers

These interviews were conducted for MOCA's 2013 fashion exhibition, Front Row. The exhibition traced and celebrated the rise of Chinese American designers who have made their mark in the international world of fashion. In the interviews the designers discuss the diversity of their aesthetics, their individualized approaches to branding, and how their varying personal relationship to cultural identity has shaped what we now understand as not only New York fashion, but an American sense of style.


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2013.021.001 Oral History with Anna Sui

Anna Sui, a Chinese woman who grew up around Chinese garments when visiting her grandmother. Having a mother who painted and a father who was an architect, thus leading to her many influences of art and style. For example, she collected inspiring things into a box which helped her develop her own style as a fashion designer. By incorporating them into her style, she was able to create an inspired collection of Chinese fabrics. What became her Tibetan Surfer Collection started from the outfits people wore at the Tibetan freedom concert.



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2013.021.002 Oral History with David Chu

David Chu was born in Taiwan and studied fashion design at F.I.T. He started illustration, fine, art, and architecture, which led him to later have an interest in fashion. This was through a summer course at F.I.T. In starting his own brand, he came back from Asia and was employed at an apparel company called Kayser-Roth. From this, he learned a lot about the garment industry that led him to creating Nautica. The concept of the company was based around the outdoor, active lifestyle. He believes that if someone has a passion for something, they will find a way to succeed. He believes that cultures need to be redefined and that the most important thing is to find your passion.



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2013.021.003 Oral History with Derek Lam

Derek Lam was born in San Francisco and studied fashion at Parsons School of Design. His decision was influenced by his family being in the garment business. In starting his own brand, he wanted to challenge himself by being in the forefront. He believes that fashion should be expressive and spontaneous.



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2013.021.004 Oral History with Jade Lai

Jade Lai is a Chinese American designer and was born in Hong Kong. She did not have formal training in fashion design but went on to work for Espirit and started her own brand Creatures of Comfort. In this oral history she also discusses her design aesthetic, and her joy to be a designer in New York City close to the garment district. At the end of the interview she discusses the universal impact fashion has and the success of Chinese American designers.



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2013.021.005 Oral History with Jason Wu

Jason Wu, a fashion designer born in Taiwan, raised in Canada focuses on the importance of being raised in a strong fashion oriented environment. His love for femininity and beauty was the drive for his passion that he later carried on during his fashion career. With the knowledge of fashion and a strong sense of business making, Jason Wu created a name for himself as a successful Asian American fashion designer.



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2013.021.006 Oral History with Mary Ping

Mary Ping is the mastermind behind the Front Row exhibit. Born in Queens, NY and raised in Westchester County, she began her fashion education and graduated with a bachelor in fine arts as well as traveling overseas for a more in depth fashion education. Her love for fashion began when she was a little girl, making clothes for her dolls, then making clothes for herself as well as her family and friends, until she finally began moving onto the significance of making fashion statements whilst also staying true to her Chinese roots and culture surrounding women and fashion at the time. She then begins to realize her individuality within her fashion and her pieces, and uses a combination of different skills and perceptions of art to create her identity.



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2013.021.007 Oral History with Melinda Eng

Melinda Eng is a Hong Kong native who pursued a thriving career in fashion through her initial love for illustration. Her persistence and her dedication landed her opportunities that many young fashion designers would never expect to have so early in their careers. Her strong work ethic constructs her ability to go above and beyond not only in the fashion industry but in life, as she was constantly encouraged to do greater things as she grew. New York has constantly been a theme that seems to be an inspiration for her work, and continues to be throughout her career.



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2013.021.008 Oral History with Opening Ceremony

Both Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were born in Los Angeles and studied at UC Berkeley. Both are creative designers of discovery who started their brand, Opening Ceremony. Their childhood with Asian ancestry, led to their feel and atmosphere of their brand. They believe in having a story behind their collection and the ability of the internet to make fashion easily accessible.



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2013.021.009 Oral History with Peter Som

Peter Som is a San Francisco born fashion designer who had the aspiration to be an artist since he was very young. He’s always aimed for starting a business in New York and since then has been extremely ambitious in the fashion industry. He proposes the idea of fashion in order to convey his view of his culture in a future perspective. He brings new and modern elements to his style that not many other designers have yet begun to think of. His appreciation for the urban culture in New York City shows in his application and care when creating and showcasing his pieces. Peter Som shows a great deal of integrity between his identity as a modern fashion designer and his indebtedness to his Chinese American culture.



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2013.021.010 Oral History with Phillip Lim

Phillip Lim is a Chinese American fashion designer who immediately began his career in the world of fashion. He began to take courses that would provide him with the basics of fashion designing as well as networking at a very early stage in his career to get him the connections he was fortunate enough to stay in touch with today. Phillip Lim also expresses his individuality and his culture through a free flow of his creativity. He uses his culture to inspire him to think outside of the box and to remind people of the influences of his designs rather than using it to simply to visually show his culture. He keeps a close knit relationship with his company and society and always finds a way to effectively bring them together to create a statement worth remembering.