2016.037.026 Oral History Interview with Tommy and Frank Wong
Tommy and Frank Wong discuss their experience coming to America from Hong Kong with their three brothers and working in a variety of restaurants before starting their own. The brothers lived across the US in Texas, Kansas, and San Francisco until they started their own restaurant in New Orleans. Tommy offers an interesting explanation of the history of Chinese food in America as well as how he worked to blend the styles and flavors of Chinese and Louisiana cuisine into what he considers to be the highlights of both. Frank similarly offers some recipes and explains the influence of local Louisiana cuisine on his cooking. He concludes by discussing some of his familys charity work and urging Chinese restaurants to be supportive of one another and not be too competitive.

0:00 - Introduction, immigration in 1960s from Hong Kong, lived in Amarillo Texas as a child, anecdote about how he got his American name, his grandfather restaurant in Texas serving Chinese and American food, explains Chop-Suey food and its origins, culture shock of coming to the US and eating different food, moving to New Orleans where he found new flavorful food, he was fascinated by Texas as a kid, moved to San Francisco after his grandfather passed, TV helped him learn conversational English

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8:37 - Describes the restaurant owned by his grandfather, lived in a Chinatown in San Francisco but was one of the only Chinese kids in Louisiana, talks about his grandmother, his brothers moved to Baton Rouge as chefs before starting their own restaurant, grew up working in various kitchens with family members, moved in with his siblings because San Francisco was getting tough, working and partnering with his brothers, his brothers cooked up all sorts of food like alligator in Sichuan style

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20:06 - He tries to touch on the high points of different Chinese cuisine, cooks Cantonese food adapted to spicier southern palate, he ate out a lot and read cookbooks to expand his menu, talks about the New Orleans food scene, recipe inspired by local flavors, talks about signature dish, talks about locally sourced soft-shell crab

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27:13 - History of southern Chinese immigrants, Cantonese restaurants came from these immigrants, in the 1960s and 70s new immigrants brought new waves of Chinese foods, he and his brothers wanted to open a restaurant that was more true to Chinese cuisine, eating with family is very important, Chinese food has become comfort food to Americans and is part of the culture, makes sure his food is good food, doesn’t view his restaurant as competing exclusively with other Chinese places

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36:12 - Comfort food is Italian or steak, recalls associating specific foods with specific restaurants growing up, he enjoys eating outside of what he cooks at the restaurant, authenticity is second to catering to clientele, start with high quality ingredients, discusses the sauces and spices that are essential, he loves serving generations of clients, giving back to charities is very important and teaching the community to cook

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44:11 - Introduction of Frank Wong, came to Texas from Hong Kong at 15 years old, worked at China Inn in Topeka Kansas for two years where he picked up American style Chinese food, was interested in cooking since a little boy, became a chef at 19 and at 20 he opened his first take-out Chinese restaurant, he sold the first place and later opened a new restaurant which he designed on his own, he never viewed himself as a school type, introduced to charity cooking at 20 by a French chef friend

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52:28 - He didn’t want to settle long-term in the US, he ended up liking the US though over time, he enjoyed the many different outdoor activities to do in the US, he works to raise money for a children’s hospital and local museum, he doesn’t feel tied to any one style of Chinese cooking, stopped using MSG and mixes his own spices to enhance flavor

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58:44 - Chinese food is central to his life and is his favorite, top cuisines are Chinese French and Italian in his opinion, taste is the most important thing ahead of appearance, Louisiana food influenced his food over the years, Louisiana has the best seafood in his opinion, he cooks slightly differently for Americans and Chinese customers, one of his favorite dishes lately is honey pecan shrimp, talks about the interactions between Asian cuisines and the competition between Chinese restaurants

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