2008.040.018 Oral History Interview with Mr. and Mrs. Chan March 7, 2008

 

Mr. and Mrs. Chan, founders and owners of the long established and renowned coffee shop and restaurant, Mei Lai Wah, in New Yorks Chinatown, are both Taishan natives, who claim that New York, especially their restaurant, is home to them. Upon arrival, Mr. Chan was employed at a bakery, the culinary training from which he later applied to his own business, Mei Lai Wah. Mr. Chan explains that he runs his business like a family and has not changed anything since he first opened it in 1968. He celebrates that his employees, who are also from the same village as Mr. Chan, have stayed with the business since its opening. As a result of rising rent, Mr. and Mrs. Chan have witnessed family-owned business closures and fear that the increasing expense of living in Chinatown may drive Chinese immigrants to settle outside of the unique cultural community. Despite their concerns over rent increases and their employees increasing age, both Mr. and Mrs. Chan hope to sustain their beloved business for as long as possible. Ultimately, when Mr. and Mrs. Chan decide to retire, they will not be handing down the restaurant to their children since none of them have expressed interest in continuing the operations of the business or living in Chinatown.

0:00 - Mr. and Mrs. Chan are from Taishan/Toisan, Mr. Chan was born in 1918 and is 90 years old, he immigrated to the U.S. in 1943 from a village in Taishan, he came to Hong Kong for a few years before the U.S., he grew up in big family with 8-10 siblings, Chan went to Minnesota for 2 months when he arrived in the U.S., Mrs. Chan is his second wife

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4:13 - When he came to Chinatown, not many people were there, he wanted to learn how to start a bakery, so he went to the store called Gum Moon to learn how to bake, he focused on making more money

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6:00 - He wanted to learn baking because it was very difficult to find a job and weren’t many bakeries then, he opened his own store, lots of people in Chinatown are Taishanese, his first lived in an apartment on Mott and Kenmare Street, he spent lots of time working, so no leisure time and no going out with friends, Chinatown boundaries were Mott, Canal, and Pell Street, he opened Mei Lai Wah in 1968, he saved some money and had a friend who became a partner to open this store

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12:05 - Mrs. Chan immigrated in 1972, his first wife had been sick for 10 years, after she passed away, Mr. Chan remarried to Mrs. Chan, Mr. Chan has a brother in Florida

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18:28 - In 1960s there were a lot more bakeries than now, Wan Gei on Mott, Jook Lam on Bowery are gone now, the only other bakeries that are still around are Mei Sun and Lam Wah on Pell Street, Lam Wah having been here longer than Mei Lai Wah, they live in Chinatown because it is convenient for all their needs

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25:17 - Discussion of changing rents over time, he doesn’t do anything for leisure but just constantly works, he has two daughters, one son, nine grandchildren, and six great-grandchildren, their kids don’t live in Chinatown; one lives in Minnesota, two in New Jersey, doesn't want business to change

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28:54 - Old-timers are most of their regular customers, most of the Chinese customers are old-timers, non-Chinese customers are mostly from Philippines, customers advertise them through word of mouth, His best memories of Mei Lai Wah are with his old customers, he is retired, he only eats out at his own store

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40:28 - Mei Lai Wah’s block was very quiet when he first came in the 1960s, after he opened Mei Lai Wah, more people came to this street. The Chan Association upstairs is a special place to Mr. Chan, the Chan Association hasn’t changed, other places in Chinatown have changed a lot, while the same people have remained, Mei Lai Wah’s special coffee recipe, they are losing their customers, 9/11 and garment factories moving out have affected their business, business was very good when they first opened

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49:25 - Their retirement is uncertain, their children are not interested in continuing this business, they will continue to live in Chinatown, they have lived in Confucius Plaza for over 30 years, they have heard many stories of people not being able to afford rent and close down the business e.g. Sweet N Tart on Mott Street

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58:12 - He designed Mei Lai Wah and created the layout of the store, everything hasn’t changed since 1968 including its furniture and employees, they run their business like a family, Mei Lai Wah is unique to NY’s Chinatown, because NY has a lot of friends of same village

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59:59 - He doesn’t miss anything, he just cares about his business, he named it Mei Lai Wah because he likes the name, Hong Kong, China, and Hawaii also have Mei Lai Wah, his favorite things to eat at Mei Lai Wah are wontons and coffee

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